After numerous recommendations I have finally got round to picking up Patrick Leigh Fermor's book 'A Time of Gifts' - recollections of his epic journey to Constantinople in the years before the 2nd WW. It has been one of those books that has left me marvelling at the power of the descriptive word to paint such vivid pictures when in the hands of a master. Whilst his experiences in so many ways couldn't be more different from mine 70 plus years on he does capture elements of the 'travellers' experience that still hold true. One of his opening lines "..... I knew that the enterprise had to be solitary and the break complete" is about to be put to the test!
Crispin left yesterday for home. We had spent the last few days based on a campsite just cross the river from the 'city of the popes', Avignon. I had driven past but never explored this historic centre before (another world heritage site!) so was delighted for the time we had to check out its treasures. And many it has, dominated by the immense Palais des Popes, the Cathédrale and of course the Pont d'Avignon. However most memorable for us was the extensive network of narrow streets that enchanted us both.
We utilised Crisp's penultimate day to head eastwards from Avignon towards the Luberon in search of the 'real' Provence. The precarious hill top town of Gordes was as beautiful as we had hoped. With a brief onwards journey with stunning views we 'found' the Abbaye de Sénanque nestled in a the folds of the hills and set amongst those fields of lavender I had been led to believe was so central a part of this area! Sadly the lavender harvest had finished before we arrived so no flowers or scent but a very beautiful setting.
Having said our farewells Tilly and I headed towards the Cevennes, a place I had heard so much about that it was a destination I did not wish to miss. Its delights have not disappointed - the drive westwards from Nimes towards Milleau along the D999 (will I ever master the French road numbering?!) was wonderful - quiet winding roads with wonderful views across wide wooded valley's punctuated with rocky outcrops and river gorges. I will be happy to make this my base for the next few days before I begin my journey back to the UK.
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Hi Rupert, thought it time to read some of your blogs. Looks great. By the way, there was a new arrival at No 7 yesterday - Benjamin, 7lbs and half an ounce. All okay. Did you know, they think they've got the place for a year. I said you were back for Christmas. Confusion. Did you get my email about pestilence in UK: floods, foot and mouth and a change of PM? I'd stay away for a while if I were you. They're now shooting 11 year-olds in this country...and still moaning about joining the (more civilized and peaceful) EU. Vikings and Normans are rather like wild dogs. They can't be tamed. Happy travels. Regards, Milos
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