Tilly tails

Tilly will never be known for her speed. All too often I catch a glimpse in my mirrors of a growing tail of cars chancing a moment to overtake. For fear of witnessing an accident from some misplaced judgement I have grown to celebrate the arrival of roundabouts! A few circuits do wonders to reduce the heat from frustrated drivers and an opportunity for Tilly to shed her tail and for me usually a much needed pause to clarify my direction!

Talking of 'tales' my slow pace gives me plenty of time to reflect on the travelling 'experience' and comparison with Leigh Fermor's 1930's journey on his epic journey to Constantinople. He sets out alone with next to nothing but seems consistently 'rescued' by the generosity of all - from fellow travellers, Counts and Barons to charitable Consuls, Burgermeisters and even the local constables! How things have changed! The lone traveller I guess is hardly an unusual sight these days to lavish hospitality on however it does seem that a bright green camper van still is. I have lost track of the number of times people have waved, hooted, stopped and chatted, keen to share fond memories of their own. Tilly is no doubt a bit of a celebrity!

And then there was one (and Tilly!)

After numerous recommendations I have finally got round to picking up Patrick Leigh Fermor's book 'A Time of Gifts' - recollections of his epic journey to Constantinople in the years before the 2nd WW. It has been one of those books that has left me marvelling at the power of the descriptive word to paint such vivid pictures when in the hands of a master. Whilst his experiences in so many ways couldn't be more different from mine 70 plus years on he does capture elements of the 'travellers' experience that still hold true. One of his opening lines "..... I knew that the enterprise had to be solitary and the break complete" is about to be put to the test!

Crispin left yesterday for home. We had spent the last few days based on a campsite just cross the river from the 'city of the popes', Avignon. I had driven past but never explored this historic centre before (another world heritage site!) so was delighted for the time we had to check out its treasures. And many it has, dominated by the immense Palais des Popes, the Cathédrale and of course the Pont d'Avignon. However most memorable for us was the extensive network of narrow streets that enchanted us both.

We utilised Crisp's penultimate day to head eastwards from Avignon towards the Luberon in search of the 'real' Provence. The precarious hill top town of Gordes was as beautiful as we had hoped. With a brief onwards journey with stunning views we 'found' the Abbaye de Sénanque nestled in a the folds of the hills and set amongst those fields of lavender I had been led to believe was so central a part of this area! Sadly the lavender harvest had finished before we arrived so no flowers or scent but a very beautiful setting.

Having said our farewells Tilly and I headed towards the Cevennes, a place I had heard so much about that it was a destination I did not wish to miss. Its delights have not disappointed - the drive westwards from Nimes towards Milleau along the D999 (will I ever master the French road numbering?!) was wonderful - quiet winding roads with wonderful views across wide wooded valley's punctuated with rocky outcrops and river gorges. I will be happy to make this my base for the next few days before I begin my journey back to the UK.

Cheers all round

We have been re-united! After some major wobbles in my 'relationship' with Tilly, and some impressive assistance from the RAC and a hotel over night stay - we are back together - an event not missed on our friendly camp site hosts who cheered on our return! Apparently the cause of Tilly's unhappiness was an over heated ignition coil - well that's the conclusion we came to after much gesturing between a mechanic who spoke no English and a sibling group who spoke no Italian. Whilst I do regret my poor language abilities I have been pleasantly cheered as to just how far you can get relying on non verbals - the hint of uncertainty that all has been understood as intended adds that further spice to the travelling experience.

After a day spent in Vincenza, a must see for any student of architecture - apparently the neo classical work of Palladio, much in evidence in the city has been hugely influential on European planning - we left our settled base on the shores of Lake Garda and headed south - the Italian Riviera our destination. What a difference a flat road makes to our travels! What we lost in scenic mountain vistas we gained in anxiety free travelling and perhaps the first glimpse of my original 'camper vision'! We had to savour the moment - as the Apennines headed into view the Tilly formula (hills = stress) all too soon kicked back in - all eyes on the oil temperature, judging anxiously the length and gradients of tunnels and frequent road side stops. Fortunately no 'Gottard Tunnel' moments this time and eventually our road headed down hill with a brief stop in La Spezia (v missable we all concluded) and eventual arrival at Levanto on the coast, within walking distance of the Cinque Terre, a national herritage site centred around a group of ancient fishing villages clinging to impossibly steep cliffs. A wonderful days walking between the villages yesterday was a wonderful tonic for an onwards journey to San Remo today, an over night stop before heading onto Provence.

We are now without Jo (great company and a talented mechanic) who left us yesterday for onwards travels. Just hoping Tilly will not protest too much without his careful nurturing!

Tilly time

Our travels and destinations are becoming increasingly governed by Tilly's frailties! It has become all too painfully evident (some would so 'no surprise there then'!) that she really doesn't like hills or hot climates. She has been running a very high temperature for much of the time since the last entry and as I write is languishing in some unknown garage awaiting a diagnosis and, I hope successful treatment. It's never going to be a positive sight when one has to witness ones trusted steed loaded unceremoniously on to the back of a lorry - even if one is sitting watching from the shores of Lake Garda!



Yes we've made it to northern Italy but are resigned to the fact that our initial destination of Dubrovnik was, with hindsight a little unrealistic in a work horse as old as Tilly. On reflection the Netherlands wold have provided the ideal pottering land for a Camper - but that's going to have to be another trip as there is no way on earth that we are going to be able to coax her over those Alps!



We did some how manage to make it to Interlarken and onto a wonderful campsite overlooking the small village of Lauterbrunnen settled comfortably in a bucolic valley framed by soaring cliffs that climb upwards to vertiginous snow capped peaks with names that must be familiar to the world over. Not only a wonderful spot for us to forget about over heating engines but a perfect base to take the impressive network of cable cars and trains to the summit of the Schilthorn, immortalised for so many by the revolving mountain retreat in the James Bond film 'On Her Majesties Secret Service'. Not sure why I had been so reluctant to make the trip after the initial suggestion by Crispin as it really was a magical trip.



From the lofty heights of Switzerland we gingerly wove our way to Lake Como after a rather nerve racking trip through the Gotthard Tunnel with memories of that awful fire some years back all too fresh in our memories. With climbing temperatures (for once not Tilly's or ours) we made a brief over night stop near Lecco and then onwards to the southern shores of Lagio di Garda via a delightful lunchtime stop at the hill top town of Bergamo (well recommended!).



Whilst we wait for news of Tilly we have escaped to Verona for the day - no doubt the city's sights will be a welcome distraction from negotiations with the RAC!