The invitation was just too hard to resist. Winding passes, soaring mountains, remote alpine villages - the time had come - we were going to head for the hills!
Montreux, at the far eastern end of Lake Geneva was our last stop before the climbing began. Perhaps more time would have allowed the town a chance to offer up the delights that had so attracted its illustrious list of past visitors (Bryon, Shelley, Hemmingway). For us, however the stunning Castle Chillon was well worth the stop - with a setting as close to perfection as one could imagine and complemented by regular visits from the beautiful paddle boats that steam up and down the lake - all a memorable sight.
Our next destination was Interlarken via the 'high road'. A dramatically rising engine oil gauge, a protesting engine and smoke pouring out of Tilly's air ducts didn't need any reference to the Haynes manual to tell us we had the beginnings of a long, slow and anxious journey ahead. A tense conversation, perhaps not helped by my insistence that we plan an evacuation drill just in case (fire extinguisher at the ready, doors unlocked, bags packed - I had heard too many traumatic stories of campers going up in flames to take any chances!) and agreement reached that we would proceed with caution. And so we did and many stops later (and wonderful pauses to soak up the stunning beauty, breath in the freshness of the air and capture those evocative cow bells) we arrived at Saanen - and not before we jumped fleering from the van as cars flashed and burning smells intruded - only to realise, with relief that it wasn't us! Although well short of our hoped for night stop Saanen was a serene place to spend the night. We were later to hear that Gstaad, its next door neighbour has been the chosen retreat for many a celebrity and this week was holding the Beach Volley Ball World Champions. It does seem incongruous that a land locked country should hold such an event and clearly be so enthusiastic about the sport - stranger things have happened.
Friday, 27 July 2007
Wednesday, 25 July 2007
Internet Cafés
This entry is going to be without the usual liberal sprinkling of exclamation marks - I continue to do battle with foreign keyboards so for what follows * equates to exclamation where one is required.
Internet Cafés have become another 'life experience' that I think I can now tick of my list (and not the '1000 experiences you must have sampled before you die' list). They invariably seem located in the back room of some slightly dodgy looking shop and are invariably in semi darkness with shaddowy figures hunched over keyboards with fingers flying over keyboards at a speed I could only dream of. As I write there is a war going on to my left - the sound of bombs, gunfire and death is leaving me quite traumatized. I guess it is a blessing that my very poor French gives me no chance of understanding the last dying works of the 1000th poor soul to meet a sticky end*.
Lausanne, on the north shore of Lake Geneva has been our home for the last few days. We have broken one of our golden rules (steer clear of any campsite highlighted as something special in the guide book) and found ourselves squeezed like sardines between static caravans that clearally haven't travelled for many a long while. To be fair things could have been far worse - the first pitch we were offered nearly created a diplomatic crisis - and all over a matter of a 2 inch encrochment of territory* I fear wars have been started for no less in the past - phew*
Another 'golden rule' should probably be 'read with a high degree of skepticism any guide book description that waxes too lyrical about a place'. Lausanne seems to be one of those places - yes pleasant enough (well it hardly could not with such a beautiful Alpine backdrop*) but describing it as 'an enchanting beauty' for us has rather over egged things. Any way its hardly the worst place to spend a few days and I did get to see the most wonderful gallery, the 'Collection de l'Art Brut' - an extraordinary grouping of works by unknown people many of whom had been imprisoned or admitted to psychiatric hospitals for much of their lives often with terribly traumatic pasts. Whilst many works were disturbing much credit must be given to its originator (Jean Dubuffet) for treasuring and bringing to a wider public the lost stories of people who would otherwise have been forgotten.
Internet Cafés have become another 'life experience' that I think I can now tick of my list (and not the '1000 experiences you must have sampled before you die' list). They invariably seem located in the back room of some slightly dodgy looking shop and are invariably in semi darkness with shaddowy figures hunched over keyboards with fingers flying over keyboards at a speed I could only dream of. As I write there is a war going on to my left - the sound of bombs, gunfire and death is leaving me quite traumatized. I guess it is a blessing that my very poor French gives me no chance of understanding the last dying works of the 1000th poor soul to meet a sticky end*.
Lausanne, on the north shore of Lake Geneva has been our home for the last few days. We have broken one of our golden rules (steer clear of any campsite highlighted as something special in the guide book) and found ourselves squeezed like sardines between static caravans that clearally haven't travelled for many a long while. To be fair things could have been far worse - the first pitch we were offered nearly created a diplomatic crisis - and all over a matter of a 2 inch encrochment of territory* I fear wars have been started for no less in the past - phew*
Another 'golden rule' should probably be 'read with a high degree of skepticism any guide book description that waxes too lyrical about a place'. Lausanne seems to be one of those places - yes pleasant enough (well it hardly could not with such a beautiful Alpine backdrop*) but describing it as 'an enchanting beauty' for us has rather over egged things. Any way its hardly the worst place to spend a few days and I did get to see the most wonderful gallery, the 'Collection de l'Art Brut' - an extraordinary grouping of works by unknown people many of whom had been imprisoned or admitted to psychiatric hospitals for much of their lives often with terribly traumatic pasts. Whilst many works were disturbing much credit must be given to its originator (Jean Dubuffet) for treasuring and bringing to a wider public the lost stories of people who would otherwise have been forgotten.
Sunday, 22 July 2007
Unexpected places
We've been sticking to our plan - 1 day travel/1 day rest - or there abouts. Yesterday was the former, and with cries of 'why didn't we try this sooner?' we headed for the auto route and a surprisingly uneventful journey southwards. Our destination was Annecy, just south of Geneva with a tantalizing description from the The Rough Guide as 'one of the most beautiful and popular resort towns of the French Alps ....... surrounded by picturesque mountains Annecy resembles a fairy-tale city ....' Somehow we were blind to the added comment 'though the tourist traffic can get a bit wearing in the high season'!! And so it is and far from our misplaced images of quite, restful seclusion! It's perhaps no surprise that people head here in droves - sitting on the tranquil shores of Lac D'Annecy. We will just have to share! Not really very difficult when in minutes one can escape from the crowds to a quiet lake side with stunning views across to the soaring montains beyond.
Learning a little late in the day that the busiest, and usually biggest campsites are in the Guides we now have a policy to find our own - and it seems to be paying off. Heading down the east side of the lake as the heavens opened again we came across a gem of a site - small, quirky, tucked away, well run with a friendly welcome (and a small library!) Not far from the lake we feel we have found our home for a few nights at least.
Learning a little late in the day that the busiest, and usually biggest campsites are in the Guides we now have a policy to find our own - and it seems to be paying off. Heading down the east side of the lake as the heavens opened again we came across a gem of a site - small, quirky, tucked away, well run with a friendly welcome (and a small library!) Not far from the lake we feel we have found our home for a few nights at least.
Friday, 20 July 2007
Well placed shoes
We've sprung a leak! By chance Crispin left a well placed shoe directly under the torrent and floods were averted - he managed the full shoe in the morning v well and has squelched round today without a murmur - what sacrifice for the cause! Thunderstorms are becoming a regular feature for us it seems - their visitations at night very convenient for us - listening to the rain hurtling against Tilly's flimsy tin skin is not quite as wonderful as canvas but not far off!
I must be careful to ration my reflections on 'Tilly - the experience' but did want to share a few further reflections as she is rather significant to us! For me Camper's have always conjured up words such as 'chilled, laid back ......' - the reality seems a long way removed. 'Don't take one's I off the ball' would seem more appropriate - if one does than the early stages of disaster feel all too close. Constant attention is needed for correcting the steering, warning lights, petrol consumption, oil usage and the ever present fear of overheating and associated fire risk - I've been fed too many doom stories I fear. It certainly pays to be well in tune - a lesson for life no doubt!
Back to the sights - much of the day spent at the Abbaye de Fontenay, Nr Montbard - a remarkably complete Cistercian monastery - a magical place and no need to conjure up evocative scenes of what might have been from the ruins of similar settings in the UK. No Henry Vlll here! Now off for a meal in the charming Semur-en-Auxais with plans to head further south tomorrow and then in to Switzerland over the weekend.
I must be careful to ration my reflections on 'Tilly - the experience' but did want to share a few further reflections as she is rather significant to us! For me Camper's have always conjured up words such as 'chilled, laid back ......' - the reality seems a long way removed. 'Don't take one's I off the ball' would seem more appropriate - if one does than the early stages of disaster feel all too close. Constant attention is needed for correcting the steering, warning lights, petrol consumption, oil usage and the ever present fear of overheating and associated fire risk - I've been fed too many doom stories I fear. It certainly pays to be well in tune - a lesson for life no doubt!
Back to the sights - much of the day spent at the Abbaye de Fontenay, Nr Montbard - a remarkably complete Cistercian monastery - a magical place and no need to conjure up evocative scenes of what might have been from the ruins of similar settings in the UK. No Henry Vlll here! Now off for a meal in the charming Semur-en-Auxais with plans to head further south tomorrow and then in to Switzerland over the weekend.
Wednesday, 18 July 2007
A lack of Fizz
18th July 2007
Mastering a French keyboard has been proving surprisingly challenging - letters and symbols in different places and that comes after logging on - bitterly regretting my 'lack of effort' for GCE O-level!
Long day in the bus journeying south to a stop over north of Dijon. Tilly did us proud this time! Hopes for regular stops for Champagne tastings were quickly dashed (no doubt very fortunate) - no Cavés in sight and surprisingly dull scenery for such a eminent region.
Mastering a French keyboard has been proving surprisingly challenging - letters and symbols in different places and that comes after logging on - bitterly regretting my 'lack of effort' for GCE O-level!
Long day in the bus journeying south to a stop over north of Dijon. Tilly did us proud this time! Hopes for regular stops for Champagne tastings were quickly dashed (no doubt very fortunate) - no Cavés in sight and surprisingly dull scenery for such a eminent region.
Tuesday, 17 July 2007
Calais and beyond
15th July 2007
Who said we couldn't make it past Calais?! For the record we had over an hour to spare for the ferry (Tilly was much admired as we waited in regimented lines!) No problems with re-starting the engine as feared and an uneventful short hop to our first campsite destination 'La Bien Assise', Guines, Picardy. Crisp's worries about the onset of middle age, broken fan belts and a lack of food were all dissipated with a cycle ride and chance discovery of a friendly restaurant tucked away amongst idyllic crumbling farm buildings. Then back 'home' and the first of no doubt many debates as to how best to organise the innards of the camper to guarantee a degree of comfort.
Who said we couldn't make it past Calais?! For the record we had over an hour to spare for the ferry (Tilly was much admired as we waited in regimented lines!) No problems with re-starting the engine as feared and an uneventful short hop to our first campsite destination 'La Bien Assise', Guines, Picardy. Crisp's worries about the onset of middle age, broken fan belts and a lack of food were all dissipated with a cycle ride and chance discovery of a friendly restaurant tucked away amongst idyllic crumbling farm buildings. Then back 'home' and the first of no doubt many debates as to how best to organise the innards of the camper to guarantee a degree of comfort.
Are you still here?
'Rupe, a red light's just come on. Should we stop?' announces Crisp with his usual calm delivery. Could this really be happening again? Perhaps this is going to be the brutal reality of life on the road with Tilly - warning lights, oil leaks, odd ways ...... and so far from the fantasy I've held in my head for so long - the dream is crumbling - it's back to the reality of a 31 + year old VW camper I guess. At least this time its only one red light - last time it was the works - every warning light flashing all at once in (not so) glorious technicolour - and a whisker short of half an hour of taking ownership of a v quirky Californian import (via the Netherlands!) 'rust free/good runner' VW Camper. That time it was heading from a port, this time its heading for one - Dover and a ferry deadline - more importantly a gnawing fear that those all too often despairing family asides 'you'll never make it/you're bound to break down before Calais/what possessed you to purchase that? .............' may just hold more truth than I would like to admit. This time the pressures, really on. A tentative look reveals a broken fan belt - that's the easy part. Fixing it is going to be the challenge! Of course we've no spare - yes I know Jonathan advised so strongly we should take one - but younger brothers can't always be right - can they?! Well I at least do now possess a library of manuals, kind gifts and now worth there weight in gold. Reassuring tones from one give me the confidence to suggest we just drive on with fingers crossed and hopes that Tilly might just get us there in time to begin our much talked about adventures at last!
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